18 July, 2012

Restaurant Review - L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon & Joël Robuchon Restaurant, Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore

It was a mixed emotional experience when HFB was invited for the new menu tasting of L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Joël Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore. If you hadn’t already knew, HFB was part of the team that was labouring at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon during their opening when Mr Joël Robuchon himself was here to officiate. One year on, the place remained the same, although the team changed much. But the good news is Executive Chef Tomonori Danzaki and Chef de Cuisine Lorenz Hoja still helms the kitchen of Joël Robuchon Restaurant and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon respectively.

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The tasting session was supposedly to kick-start with Mr Joël Robuchon himself demonstrating one of the dishes at the kitchen of Joël Robuchon Restaurant, but he felt a little under the weather and Chef Eric Bouchenoire, part of Mr Robuchon faithful brigade that travels the world with him, took over and demonstrated how to poach an egg, before Chef Tomonori Danzaki finished off the intricate dish by crumbing the egg and deep-fry it, before completing it with Crème Fraiche, and a very generous quenelle of Caviar!

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HFB wondered who was the lucky fellow that eventually got to sample it?

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HFB was then ushered to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon and was promptly served champagne, which he thought was the drink he enjoyed the most throughout the session.

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It was truly a refreshing experience that he was seated on the other side of the bar-counter, while spotting some of his ex-mates slogging away. Indeed the grass is greener on the other side. Heh!

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Shortly, the much-celebrated bread basket arrived – painstakingly prepared daily by Baker Chef Yoshihiko Tauchi and his team at the bakery within Resorts World. HFB clearly remembered how some of these breads served him well as his late-night snack after service. Ahhh…sweet memories…!

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The Amuse Bouche of Pour Commencer was a delightful Avocado and Grapefruit “Ruby Red” with Fresh Coriander. A magnifique start that was refreshing and seek to open up one’s palate readily, HFB enjoyed the contrasting harmony texture of the dish – creamy (avocado), pulpy (grapefruit), and wobbly (gelée) – all at one go.

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HFB really enjoyed the Le Caviar Imperial that was served chilled, consisting of Imperial Caviar on a Corn Veloute with Shivering Beef Jelly. Using Japanese sweet corn, the veloute was delightfully smooth, creamy and sweet to a smack. Combined it with the savoury umami-ness of the caviar plus the beef consommé jelly and this is a sure winner – brilliantly executed!

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The most inspirational moment arrived that evening when Mr Robuchon strolled in and quickly made his way to the open kitchen of L'Atelier, along with another of his trusty lieutenant, Chef Philippe Braun, to personally oversee the 3rd dish – La Tomate, made up of “Merinda” Tomato and Mozzarella Méli-Mélo with Spring Vegetables Crisp.

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A seemingly straightforward dish that spoke volume in its flavours, HFB enjoyed the natural sweetness of the tomato which paired really well with that dash of good quality extra virgin olive oil along with the mozzarella. This was a dish that truly let the ingredients spoke for themselves.

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Said to be the creation of Chef Yosuke Soga, who is part of Mr Robuchon's entourage this time round, he was also the man that started the first Atelier in Tokyo. The L'Œuf de Poule consisted of Soft Boiled Egg with Piperade Flavoured Iberico – a typical Basque dish prepared with onion, peppers, and tomatoes sautéed and flavoured with Espelette Pepper. HFB felt the full-bodied sauce was a little overwhelming for the egg, which he felt was a little pity.

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HFB bade his farewell from L’Atelier and was whisked away to Joël Robuchon Restaurant next door, where he was greeted with more of the awesome breads that he couldn’t say no to.

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The tiny croissant with the hand-churned butter was simply a match made in heaven.

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The L’Oursin, or Sea Urchin zephyr with Wasabi Foam was in HFB’s opinion an extravagant dish. Three big chunks of awesome sea urchin were fittingly balanced off with the wasabi foam in taste of texture and flavour. The natural sweetness elicit from the sea urchin was unassailable.

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Roasted Lobster with Baby Spinach Leaves Flavoured with Black Pepper Sauce, or Le Homard, was probably Chef Tomonori’s take on our local black pepper crab dish. Two lavish chunks of lobster meat consisting of its claw and body were roasted to near-perfection and deftly seasoned. HFB thought the sauce was a tad intense in spiciness, but otherwise did aromatically go well with the crustacean.

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And if you thought the last two dishes were luxurious, you hadn’t come across the Le Bœuf – a Beef Fillet in Rossini interpretation with Vintage Taylors Port and Bitter Salad Sprouts. The beef fillet was paired with a generous slab of Foie Gras, and came with Black Truffle Trimmings!!! This was one really heavily flavoured dish that had all the ingredients screaming for attention!!! On other days this would have been good, no, in fact it would be divine – but not that day – HFB felt it was a little too rich for him after the numerous courses.

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Probably more as a pre-dessert, the Les Parfun de Iles, or Smooth Passion Fruit, Rum Granite, Light Coconut Foam was a slight comfort after the heavy mains, but he did find the rum granite a little too overbearing overall.

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HFB is not a huge aficionado of anything sour, but the Le Jaune Fleuri, a dessert consisting of Lime Zest Lightness flavoured with Yuzu was a much welcome dessert. It was light in texture, and its palate-cleansing properties meant that it was polished off within seconds. He was glad it ended on a great note.

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The evening ended with the Le Moka – Le Thé, or Coffee and Tea served with Mignardises, which are a type of Petit Four that are tiny, bite-sized desserts.

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Disclaimer: No ratings would be given, as this is an invited taste test. HFB would also like to take this opportunity to thank L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, Joël Robuchon Restaurant, Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore and Weber Shandwick for their hospitality.


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